Carb help please

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Nitro6two

Active Member
Apr 1, 2014
#1
I ordered a HRC jet kit for my 2014 trx450 and it arrived yesterday. Last night I took the seat and tank off to install the needle. My thought was to to do the needle first because it is easy, then I could remove the carb to change the jets.

The stock needle looks like a nailhead up top where the clip and holder go. The hrc needle is slightly shorter in overall length and does not have the nail head, it is more like a finish nail and there is nothing to keep it from falling through the holder. I can put the clip on the top position and drop the needle in the holder but this does not look right or feel right.

Have you seen this scenario before? What did you do to get the parts to work?

Side question, is it necessary to completely remove the carb to change the main and leak jet?

Thank you for your help as you can probably tell I am new to this stuff.
 

Baileyguns

Staff member
Apr 28, 2012
#2
Stock needles are non adjustable, that's why it looks like a nail head. Clip should go on the middle slot to start off. The needles should be the same length, are you sure you have the correct needle? The needle for the 04/05 carb is shorter...

You could probably manage to swap main and leak jet without removing the carb if you twist it to the side but... You already have the tank off so it would be easier just to pop the carb off. There are three 8mm bolts holding the air box on, 2 on the right one on the left. Take that off with the tub and it's a breeze to get the carb off.

Go easy on the screws that hold the bowl on, they strip easy. I swap them out with stainless Allen head (machine screw) bolts. Your local hardware store should have them. Just bring one of the stock Philips head screw with you to match the length and thread.
 

Nitro6two

Active Member
Apr 1, 2014
#3
Stock needles are non adjustable, that's why it looks like a nail head. Clip should go on the middle slot to start off. The needles should be the same length, are you sure you have the correct needle? The needle for the 04/05 carb is shorter...

You could probably manage to swap main and leak jet without removing the carb if you twist it to the side but... You already have the tank off so it would be easier just to pop the carb off. There are three 8mm bolts holding the air box on, 2 on the right one on the left. Take that off with the tub and it's a breeze to get the carb off.

Go easy on the screws that hold the bowl on, they strip easy. I swap them out with stainless Allen head (machine screw) bolts. Your local hardware store should have them. Just bring one of the stock Philips head screw with you to match the length and thread.
No, I'm not certain that I have the right needle. It appears to be shorter in overall length, when I lay them next to each other so the points are even, the HRC needle head is even with the clip position of the stock needle. What's more concerning to me is that the HRC needle will pass through the holder, nothing to stop it like the nail head of the stock needle.
 

Nitro6two

Active Member
Apr 1, 2014
#6
The little "E" clip is what keeps the needle from slipping through. The needle should have came with the clip.
The "E" clip does not fit inside the top of the brass nut, the clip is too large. BUT, Paul at Woodward Specialties emailed me back and explained that the part number is correct 16020-NLZ-610 and he advised: "No problem at all.... i know what you are seeing. Don't worry, it works perfect. Just put the clip on in the desired position, slip it into the slide, and screw the brass nut down on it. The nut holds the needle in, as it seats on the clip."

I think this should work and I will try this evening. I will post up some pictures this evening to help with the visual aspects. I guess I just don't think out of the box enough sometimes. Thanks for the help and I will be taking your advice on removing the air box to rotate or remove the carb to change the main and leak jet. Also I replace the bowl screws with some stainless screws like you suggested. Thanks for the help and great tips!
 

Burke

Troll Slayer
Lifetime Member
Apr 18, 2012
#7
you have received the correct information... honestly most problems that guys have on this machine, is from overthinking. Sometimes you just have to tell yourself... "Yes, it really can be this simple."
 

Nitro6two

Active Member
Apr 1, 2014
#8
you have received the correct information... honestly most problems that guys have on this machine, is from overthinking. Sometimes you just have to tell yourself... "Yes, it really can be this simple."
I have to agree! I caught myself worrying too much about it because the "new" factor has not worn off yet. I just want to do things right.
 

Nitro6two

Active Member
Apr 1, 2014
#9
Don't I feel stupid! I did what was mentioned above and what Paul at Woodward Specialties confirmed. Put the clip on the HRC needle and drop in the slide, thread the spring retainer back in the slide and that's it! Put it all back together and let her rip and rip she does. Much more noticeable throttle response and much more free revving than before. Only thing left I would like to try with this is to fidget with the mixture screw but I'm not certain where it is. Maybe I don't need to mess with it at all? Thanks everyone for the help and thank you Paul you went above and beyond my expectations of customer service and I will buy from you again.
 

Baileyguns

Staff member
Apr 28, 2012
#10
The fuel screw is on the bottom of the carb towards the engine side... The stock screw takes a special tool or you need to take the bowl back off to adjust it. You could buy an aftermarket screw for $10 bucks or buy the R&D flex jet screw for $20... The R&D screw is much nicer. Either one will replace the stock screw and need for the special tool.
 

Nitro6two

Active Member
Apr 1, 2014
#11
Okay maybe not so good after all. I went out for a ride today excited to see how it would run. I really expected this thing to rip after the HRC jet kit and a 12 tooth front sprocket. It is actually slower and less aggressive than stock and I have no top end pull it just cuts out. I'm wondering if this is where the clip positions on the needle come in to play?
 

Baileyguns

Staff member
Apr 28, 2012
#12
I've seen most of your posts but now that I'm thinking about it I don't remember seeing what else you did for mods...
What else did you do to the quad? Did you take your aribox lid off, put an exhaust on?
 

Nitro6two

Active Member
Apr 1, 2014
#13
I have not done much at all but here is what I have done. Pro Taper xring chain, TM Designs chain guide, 12 tooth front sprocket. HRC jet kit clip in 3rd position from top. Opened up stock exhaust by removing restrictive insert from spark arrestor. I have the spark arrestor screen in. Air box lid still on.

Here is the restrictive insert that I removed
87c7c4a3c42d8d7a7b9e67d5cbcdf12c.jpg

And this picture shows the spark arrestor screen back in the stock exhaust.
2956a569310435e27e5ce342d4e2425f.jpg
 
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Nitro6two

Active Member
Apr 1, 2014
#15
I wanted to try a 12 tooth since most of my riding is on tight tails with lots of steep hills and terrain the low gear works better. I like the sprocket combo it is much lower geared and I can comfortably ride trails in 2nd and 3rd gear. Properly jetted...well I don't know yet but I don't think so. lol. I'm working to find answers and soon I will have it dialed in. The skid you sold me works great by the way!
 

El Mamito USMC

Zorros Racing Team..
Staff member
Apr 11, 2012
#16
you got it back wards.. you want higher front and higher rear if you want more torque... try 14T and 39 and youll see and notice the difference..
 

Burke

Troll Slayer
Lifetime Member
Apr 18, 2012
#19
You're on the right track with the 12 tooth front for more low end grunt, but I personally don't like that sprocket due to it eating through the chain slider very very quickly and it also wears out the chain in fairly short order putting it in that much of a bind... I'd go with a 13/40 or so.

The HRC jet kit is designed to be ran with no airbox lid, so you are getting waaaay too much fuel in the top end if you still have the lid on. Pull the lid off and see what you think.

The fuel screw that is located at the front of the bowl on the bottom of the carb. I want to say I remember someone flattening a spot on a .22 or .22mag spent casing and was able to use it to adjust it, but I have used both types of aftermarket screws and the R&D flex jet is by far the way to go.
 
Likes: Nitro6two

Nitro6two

Active Member
Apr 1, 2014
#20
You're on the right track with the 12 tooth front for more low end grunt, but I personally don't like that sprocket due to it eating through the chain slider very very quickly and it also wears out the chain in fairly short order putting it in that much of a bind... I'd go with a 13/40 or so.

The HRC jet kit is designed to be ran with no airbox lid, so you are getting waaaay too much fuel in the top end if you still have the lid on. Pull the lid off and see what you think.

The fuel screw that is located at the front of the bowl on the bottom of the carb. I want to say I remember someone flattening a spot on a .22 or .22mag spent casing and was able to use it to adjust it, but I have used both types of aftermarket screws and the R&D flex jet is by far the way to go.
I can see what you are saying about the 12 tooth wearing things faster. I am going to order a 40 tooth rear and R&D flex jet today as you and many others have recommended. When I get the new rear sprocket I plan to go back to the 13 tooth front. I have plenty of spent .22 laying around so should be able to make something work or will I need to remove the bowl again to install the flex jet anyway? Thanks for the help I greatly appreciate it!