Any time you're hooking some component up that will tax the factory electrical system, it's best to use a simple relay. Sometimes you can get away without using one but in other cases it's just a matter of time before the supplied voltage wire cooks the insulation and nearby wires, causing a short. These short outs are tough to trace if it happens within the wire harness that's all wrapped and insulated itself like the majority of the harness is.
Nope! It will take some load off your switch when you turn them on but unless you are going to upgrade the wiring (heavier gauge), from your reg to the lights there's no benefit of a relay. People put the relay in to take the load off the stock wiring (the stock wiring switches the relay..low current draw) then the relay contacts, which can handle more current draw than stock wiring, bring in the heavier gauge wiring/heavy current draw components etc
I just found a smaller sized 12V battery. I think that I will buy the relay and wire it to the battery. So now I am wondering where I will get the juice to charge the battery from?!? Thanks for explaining Nunkinfuts!
The 06+ e-starts run a wire straight from the reg to the battery for charging (red wire), I'd use the black from the keyswitch though (same wire, just gets switched by key switch)... bit of extra protection having the switch in circuit.
Here is mine with the battery added in behind the air filter. I ran a wire from the stator to the battery to charge it, then to a switch I installed on the dash piece, through a relay to the lights. With this set up, both lights pop right on no problem. The battery takes the brunt of the power it takes to ignite the ballasts instead of the stator.
Takes a little bit to cram all that shit under the hood, but it works great. Make sure you get a big enough switch to handle the juice it will get going through it.
thanks viking and nunkin.. The lights arrived today and are BRIGHT! I ordered a relay today and am going to run the battery. I will have to find a switch, how many amps will it need to be able to handle? Also, What guage wire should I run? Thanks, Kobe
checked your link... 35w is 2.7A @ 13v, 2.9A @ 12v (just for the 12v people). But it says 3.5A working current.. so go with 23awg (4.7A) or to be on extra safe side 22awg (7A) (recommended).
Check out Radio Shack for your switch.. they do have waterproof ones in there too.. you just need a SPST (single pole single throw), I'd get at least 6A rated.. don't know much about HID's but pretty much everything electrical draws a little more current on start-up..so go 6A...to be on safe side..